Ddl’E’s Blog

On the naming of things and people in books…at least my own.

One of the things that I find quite challenging in writing is choosing names. As a confession, the book in progress—and it’s in the throes of its final edits before I attempt submission now, mind—still has no name. I have titled the manuscript Those Without Voices, which may or may not be what I keep it as. Most likely it will not remain so, because I’m beginning to dislike it. I harbor grave doubts about my ability to name anything well, much less a book. Because I know my limitations, I simply labeled the file “Pomegranate” when I started writing it. No particular reason, except that I like both the fruit and the word, and it grows in southern Iberia. “Pomegranate” it remained almost entirely through its first 126,000-word draft. Eventually it became “The Voiceless Ones,” but that was less than optimal. Each iteration is smaller on the word count, too, as it should be.

The “voiceless” phrasing has to do with an Andalusi convention whereby it was common to call certain foreigners “voiceless” or “dumb ones”—i.e. they did not speak proper language. I’m not in love with the name; it works in the original but sounds a bit mawkish as a title in English. I hope I change it.

My first completed book manuscript was entitled A Bird in Exile, which is pretty phrasing, but in many ways did not fit it (I sometimes cringe when I think of that book; even though it was not poorly written, the plot was trite. Ultimately, it’s probably better that it found no publisher. “Do the best you can until you know better. Then do better.”) I can’t take credit for that pretty phrasing, though; it was from a line of Rumi. Which, in and of itself, is dangerous, as Rumi (or things that Rumi allegedly wrote but frequently did not, or “translations/interpretations” of his work that frequently bear little resemblance to the phrasing and meaning of the originals) has been overused as a font of rather commodified inspiration in a way that is sad to my inadequate Sufi heart.

Then there are the names of characters, which has been (and has always been) something of an effort. When one is writing historical fiction, there is a bit less latitude; the names have to be historically and culturally plausible. Writing a book set in al-Andalus in the 9th century gives one fairly narrow parameters for naming a given character, which should make it more straightforward, but it also gives one more opportunity to pick the wrong name. Why? Diversity.

Something that makes me impatient with much of the common understanding of al-Andalus is the highly limited narrative of it as a land of “Moors vs. Christians.” Which, beyond any acknowledgment of the way those lines blurred, completely dismisses the existence of Sephardic Jews, who were an integral and very influential part of Andalusi society from the very beginning right up until the bitter end. The erasure of Jews in that narrative was not accidental, and it would be good for people to challenge themselves on it when they reflexively break it down to “Moors and Christians.” It was a strikingly diverse society, and this was by no means a new thing: the Iberian Peninsula has seen waves of immigration and colonizing from very early times, from Greeks and Phoenicians to Celts and Carthaginians, Romans, Alans, Suebi, Visigoths. I would point out once more that Iberia had a significant Jewish population early, as well. Then there were the Tartessians, whose origins no one is exactly certain of (they may have been indigenous), although they were probably not aliens (there is an unfortunate line of modern occultist thought that this was the case. You should not be surprised.) On the other hand, they held their mythical progenitor to be Geryon, who had either several heads or extra limbs, so that’s not completely off the table. I digress; needless to say the Iberian Peninsula had seen the comings and goings (and stayings) of many peoples. This is not an exhaustive list, either.

All this, poured into a land of Iberians and Basques (Basques of course antedate everyone.) Add to this mixture the arrival in the 8th century of Arabs (who had their own subcultural group differences), Imazighen, African peoples from south of the Sahara to the north and east, and then people like the Saqaliba, Eastern Europeans brought in largely by the slave trade. Throw in less-repellent forms of trade and you have even more people coming in from even further-flung areas, because al-Andalus was pretty cosmopolitan despite getting sneered at as the backwater of the Islamic world, and it gets even more complex. Then again, Christian Iberians were hardly a monolithic collective; there was a cultural divide among Visigoths and the greater Celt-Iberian and longer-assimilated population, even in their Christianity. The Visigoths, who came in from central Europe as clients during the Roman period and filled the power vacuum after the Romans, converted to Christianity early—but their Christianity initially was Arianism, unlike most of the other Christians of Iberia, until the Visigoths changed course on Arianism in 589 with the Council of Toledo. ‘Twas the Visigoths (again, not an indigenous group; they were colonizers, too) who were in power when Tariq ibn Ziyad sallied forth and began the Umayyad conquest of Iberia.

Even among the people lumped together as Muslim “Moors” (n.b.: this word really isn’t a thing), Imazighen are not Arabs, even when Arabized, and even their take on Islam had some differences due to inherent cultural differences and social factors. Furthermore, there were the muwalladun, the people who converted. I could break it down further, but understand that each group had their own cultural context. Inherent cultural differences inform people’s choices, even (especially) in a pluralistic society, even with assimilation and cultural exchange and colonization.

So what has that to do with naming characters? Ah, see, there is a point to my rambling. That point being that it isn’t enough to pick “Muslim” names and early Spanish “Christian” names, because all of those various peoples had different names and naming conventions, and every group added something to the giant Iberian pot as they assimilated.

I knew better than to give everyone names in Arabic or Spanish to show the difference, because that’s the lazy dichotomy, and it’s not historically or culturally accurate. Half of the characters I use were real people, anyway, so I had fewer names to worry about; those characters had ready-made names of their own. But despite all of my reading and research, despite knowing the various ways that names in Arabic, for example, are put together, I often found myself drawing a blank when having to name a character. Far too often, as a placeholder, I’d give someone the first random name that popped in that was moderately appropriate. I’d change it later, I told myself. The net effect was that I had people with decent Arabic names (although I had to check frequently to make sure I wasn’t repeating or giving characters names that were too similar), and some with decent Amazigh names, and…well, heck, what were the Spaniards going to be? Who were they going to be?

There are lists of names found in old documents—al-Andalus was a society with a strong sense of the power of the written word, and a tendency for robust administration and record-keeping, fortunately; some of that even survived the zealous destruction of records and books after the fall of Granada—and seeing the lists reminds you of how very diverse the society was. Here are Visigothic names, which look distinctly Central European; here are names that are Hispanicized Arabic or Amazigh; here are names that are clearly Roman Latin evolving into Spanish and Portuguese (and languages like Catalan.) Some were very Roman, some almost anachronistic in how Spanish they appear. And over here, these are the Basque names, which no one else would have, but which Basques certainly would. Don’t forget that slaves were frequently given Arabic names that were diminutive, descriptive, or words for objects. I have one enslaved character who retains his original cultural name; that was a very deliberate choice, as it said something about the character of the person he served. This character is also an oblique nod to Bedr, the formidable Greek freedman of Abd ar’Rahman I, if not in naming convention.

For a while, many of the “placeholder” names I grabbed were Visigothic and few were appropriate, as few of the characters themselves were of Visigothic heritage. I confess that I was being lazy. I went back and devisigothified several names in the second run-through. I gave a character a soldier’s nickname, with the intent of introducing a backstory (I keep most character’s backstories in my head, from brief sketches to a full biography), and then realized that was not going to happen, and the name looked silly and wrong without that. So off I went to find a name appropriate for an aging soldier of Romanized Iberian family; I settled on one that had the same kind of rhythm as the nickname, and is completely in keeping with the character.

I had to change names for other reasons: a relatively minor character had a name that reads similar enough to a more major character’s name to cause confusion for two beta readers, so that had to be changed. And so on. As an aside, in that pretentiously-titled “Fragment” I posted a while back, two of the characters have since been renamed (of note also: I recognized that the formation of plurals in the Basque language does not use an “s” and am assuming that extends to earlier forms of the language; thus iainkoak, not iainkos. It still may not be correct, but I’ve done some due diligence in order to use that one word, which I honestly felt was important in context. If any Euskadi speakers correct me, I’d welcome it.)

What of the djinn in the book? Once again, I treated them as a diverse population, as they would be: some are native in their affinities and origin, some Roman or Romanized, some Muslim. Therefore, they got names that reflected that, although only a few are “real” as in human names; most are not quite human names, but they still had to reflect the particular djinn’s heritage (well, cultural affinity), so they’re mostly adaptations of human names from those cultures. I suppose I could have created entirely new, alien, djinn names, but these are the ones that took…and recall I am not good at naming, so if I’d created unique “djinn language” names, they would have probably been really silly.

I struggle with names, both remembering them and choosing apt ones, but I think the names for characters in this book now make sense. Mostly. Still, a risk in writing history is having a broken or inadequate understanding of the cultural mores and nuances, and I’ve possibly picked a wholly inappropriate name here or there. On the whole, though, I am satisfied and feel at the least I can defend my naming choices with some coherence.

I would still like to come up with a really bang-up name for the book, yes.

Fragment: The Voiceless Ones

What I’ve just written tonight…I didn’t know when I started this chapter with Juba (the shepherd, not the king he was named for) and Scribonius that it was going to involve a pair of Basque women, but nevertheless, here we are. This is unedited, by the way. I’m also still worried that Scribonius, a name that fell into my brain as being the name I needed to use, is something I’ve seen elsewhere and isn’t for me to use because it’s from some other work, but a search pulled up nothing, so Scribonius he is. If you’re wondering why a djinn would have a Roman name, there is a reason. It’s got logic in the story.

It was true that Roderic’s wife Arantxa was not best pleased when her husband returned bearing a bloody, hulking boar carcass and an only slightly less bloody and hulking Muslim stranger, but she was less vexed than her face suggested: her lower lip always jutted just enough to look like a pout, and her long narrow-jawed face always managed to look faintly displeased unless she was smiling broadly. She was somewhat mistrustful, and exasperated (so typical of this man of mine to do this, she thought, but not without affection). But she unbent quickly enough; the boar would be worth the work, and was freshly killed, and the boy was clearly country folk of a kind she recognized well enough. He was humble and polite, and had immediately set to helping her husband, despite his evident fatigue. When she directed them to wash up, he’d been the first to do so.

            As he dried his face and hands on a rag, Arantxa saw her mother Erdutza peering at the boy as she shelled peas. Erdutza gestured at her daughter to come closer.

            “What is it, Ama?”

            “That boy has a iainko with him. You can’t see it?”

            “Ama, hush. There are no iainkos. There is only God the Father and Son.”

            “Oh, there is only God the Father and the Son and the Holy Spirit as Lord of all…but you are wrong if you think there are no more iainkos. And that boy has one with him.” The older woman frowned thoughtfully at the peapod in her hand. “It’s not a bad iainko, though. It protects him.”

            “Ama…” Arantxa trailed off, knowing it would be fruitless to argue. Besides, under it all, her mother was right: there were still iainkos, no matter how good of a Christian one was. She squinted intently at the boy herself, knowing that sometimes she could see what her mother saw.

            Then she saw it, like pale mist, squatting patiently on insubstantial haunches. She could not make out its form, just that it was there and was quite large.

            Without taking her eyes off it, she asked her mother, “What does it look like to you? All I see is mist.”

            “He is like a bull. That’s very good, very strong. An old iainko, then. He’s wearing trousers, though.”

            “Trousers? Is that bad?”

            Erdutza shrugged. “They used to wear clothing like our ancestors wore, or they wore nothing. Not trousers with flowers on them.”

             The old woman nodded, as if in greeting, her eyes not moving from where the iainko crouched.

            “Ama, did it…has it noticed us?”

            “He has. He’s watching us as we watch him. Nothing to worry about, though. He is respectful, even if he’s wearing trousers.” She reached for another peapod.

            At supper, Scribonius was content to remain outside of Juba’s head, squatting in a corner and observing. Juba found himself taking great comfort from being with these people; they reminded him of his own family. The food was simple but plentiful; Roderic’s wife Arantxa had made a portion of mutton for Juba. Everyone else feasted on fresh roasted pork. Juba tried hard not to think of where it had come from, as he knew he’d be once more seeing that look of resignation and acceptance of loss in the animal’s eyes if he even looked at the roast.

            “You know, this is not at all a terrible or ignoble end for that boar, boy,” Scribonius remarked. “It’s a sacrifice, and what could be more noble and beloved by Allah than that? When you thought that the boar knew he was dying, you were correct. He did know. In that moment, he knew he was a sacrifice, and he accepted that. Like Ishmael. SubhanAllah.”

            Juba considered this, and started to reply, remembering just in time that others could not hear or see the djinn, and that responding would not be wise. He nodded instead, glancing around the table. To his dismay, he saw that the old woman, the one with the same intense, downturned eyes as Roderic’s wife, was watching him. She turned to look at the corner where Scribonius squatted, then looked back at Juba before attending once more to her food.

            “She can see and hear me, boy. She has a gift for it. Her daughter does too, but not as much. Have no fear of her, boy. She’s a fine woman.”

            The old woman pursed her lips into a smile and nodded, but did not look up from her bowl.

            “They’re Basques, these women, and Basques have always had more than their fair share of such gifts. It’s not for anyone to know why. Well, we know why, but it’s not really for you to understand.”

            Juba once again had to bite his tongue to prevent himself from responding.

            “That’s the other lesson I wanted to give you about the story of Musa and al-Khidr, boy…even the best of humans, the most perfect of humans, is still human. You lot are limited to only that which humans can know and understand, even if you want more. It’s really to your credit as a breed that you want to know more than you have the capacity for. Still, it can get exceedingly tiresome for the rest of us, badgering us with your questions as you do.”

            The old woman snorted with laughter at that, turning it into the pretense of a cough when everyone else paused to look at her.

Gardens: Impressions de Giverny & Confessions of a Garden Gnome

The Fort & Manle scents are incredible, but if one criticism can be levied at them, it’s that they’re not very “accessible.” They’re dramatic and memorable, but not necessarily everyday crowd-pleasing scents. Right?

Well, there actually are a few in the box that gainsay that. Two in particular, which are closely aligned in scent. Both are scented stories about gardens.

Monet's Jardin à Giverny
One of the many paintings of le Jardin à Giverny, by (surprise) Monet.

Impressions de Giverny was inspired by Le Jardin à Giverny; as the Fort & Manle site puts it, it is intended to be “[a]n olfactive journey of Monet’s vision for a Japanese garden in the heart of Normandy.” And it is without a doubt delightful, as well as being a scent that I could happily wear every day.

It is literally a fruity floral, but it defies the conventions of the description. As the story of a very specific garden both Eastern and Western, its elements are balanced between East and West. And the balance extends even further: under the fruits and flowers are greenery and earth.

The listed notes are yuzu, bergamot, red apple, magnolia, rose, tuberose, osmanthus, orange blossom, fig leaf, coriander, tulip, neroli, mango, ylang, ambergris, benzoin, musk. See what I mean? Fruity floral, green and earthy. It starts as florals, light and delicate, and moves into fruit, bright and delicious. It intrigues me that of the florals, the one that stands out most distinctly is the almost syrupy sweetness of osmanthus. The first fruits are the citrus, bergamot and yuzu, but the sweet piney edge of mango shows up a little later. This is the play of light and sweet over deep and aromatic. Note that both the fruits and flowers used are on the sweet and light side, so this could be overwhelming, if it weren’t for the solid base. A bit later on…ah, THERE’S the apple, with woody, almost cedarlike notes that I suspect are fig leaf and coriander. There isn’t a single bad or harsh note in this; it’s lovely, and everything blends beautifully. It’s distinctive but not overpowering. There is actually not a thing about this scent I could criticize, other than the fact that I wish it had a bit more sillage.

So, Garden No. 2, a more conventional garden than Monet’s…under the watchful eye of its steadfast guardian, the garden gnome. This one is decidedly the sister scent of Giverny; they share many notes. Gnome’s include the following: cedar, musk, Sicilian bergamot, coriander, yuzu, pink pepper, lily of the valley, mango, rose, violet leaf, ambergris, amber. Striking similarities, but where Giverny is predominantly fruity-floral, the Gnome veers into earthier, more herbal territory.

You will not mess with his garden (Antique German garden gnome image from Wikipedia).

And my own confession: at first I wasn’t sure I was down with the Gnome. One of the notes in this is sharp, almost piercing at the opening; it’s on the whole a more herbal and less floral scent than Giverny. I frowned a bit at it on first wearing, thinking this might be the one F & M I wasn’t crazy about. Happily, it grew on me, no pun intended. That sharp scent offsets the other elements, and pulls the story of the scent together. It makes sense that Confessions of a Garden Gnome would be the earthier garden scent; it’s the garden perceived at ground level, as a garden gnome would experience it. Which is really quite brilliant.

These two are the F & M scents that for me have garnered the most comments and compliments; they’re less dramatic than the others, and perhaps more conventional in composition than some of the others, but they are still unusual and memorable. If I were to recommend a “starter” scent for someone less intrepid about scents, it would be one of these. Giverny might be my very favorite in terms of sheer versatility alone. Both are unisex, like the other offerings, with Giverny being perhaps a bit more on the feminine side of the spectrum and Gnome a bit more on the masculine. That is of course highly subjective.

Wearing a garden is a beautiful idea, and these are both beautiful interpretations of that idea.

I’m not done with these yet. I still have Bojnokoff, Maduro, Amber Absolutely, Forty Thieves, and the big daddy of them all, Süleyman Le Magnifique, to review. On the non-F & M samples, I haven’t talked about the rather weird Functional Fragrance yet, and…am I missing something else? We’ll see.

Short takes: Sundrunk & Atropa Belladonna

Dear Diary:

It’s been so long. I’m trying out for the Drama Clu–no, that’s not it. I think I’m funny. But really, it has been a minute. I started a new job a month ago, and so my schedule, including time to write about perfume, has gone wonky.

I’ve got a stack of smells still to expound upon. I’ll start with two short takes on two of the samples: Sundrunk, by Imaginary Authors, and Atropa Belladonna, by Shay & Blue.

Imaginary Authors is a kind of concept house, sort of like a prog-rock album. The idea is that their scents are inspired by made up books by made-up authors. The packaging is meant to evoke a certain kind of mid-century book cover. The copy always includes an excerpt from one of these imaginary books by an imaginary author.

Here’s the one for Sundrunk:

Woozy and warm from the sun, we shared an orange pop and watched the surfers’ last lines of the day.

An excuse for me to use another random surfin’ photo!

Photo by Nathan Cowley from Pexels

Well, honestly, I’d kind of like to read more. Who are these people? What beach were they on? What were they doing afterwards? But of course, we’ll never know. Because it’s imaginary. It’s pretty meta, really. This may be a little pretentious, this concept, but that doesn’t mean it can’t deliver.

So, moving right along to Sundrunk…the notes? “Neroli, rhubarb, honeysuckle, rose water, orange zest, first kiss.” Now, there’s some zing being promised over the sweetness, with that zest and rhubarb (rhubarb is a note I’ve come to appreciate quite a bit, just from limited exposure in three or four scents.) But “first kiss”? Pray, what does that smell like? Awkwardness? Hastily chewed breath mint? We’re going to surmise that it’s sweet, not yucky, or the book excerpt would not be so idyllic. I’m also going to guess there’s a skin note in there.

Sundrunk…did I say there might be zing? Zing! A delightful burst of tartness. Maaaan. I love this. It’s citrus and rhubarb, and delightfully tart and effervescent. There is a suggestion of orange soda to it, as the copy suggests, no doubt. But it lacks the over-sweet lazy stickiness of orange soda: it’s drier and definitely sour, in a good way. It distinctly overlays sweetness instead of being sweet itself. And yes, about that “first kiss”: there is definitely the kind of warm salty-skin note that evokes a day in the sun. It’s very similar to the warm-salty-beachy skin note that l’Artisan’s Batucada has, but much more subtle here. Batucada is way more decadent in its beach languor. But then, Batucada is meant to evoke a caipirinha, and Sundrunk an orange soda. Batucada is a glossy-skinned drowsy girl on the beach in an expensive swimsuit; Sundrunk is a scruffy surfer girl with hair crisp from salt, who smells like zinc oxide and wears a rashguard. Batucada is South Beach; Sundrunk is Atlantic Beach. Right; I’ll stop with the metaphor.

This much sweet with no conflicting notes could be uninteresting if it weren’t so sour and zesty. It’s the “scruffy” part that makes it endearing. As is typical with topnote-heavy scents, it doesn’t last or project so long or far, but its longevity is pretty good for such a scent. I’m debating a full bottle of this.

So! Atropa Belladonna. A perfume named for a poisonous plant!

Deeelicious!

The listed notes are blackcurrant, narcissus, jasmine, patchouli, bourbon vanilla.

I have a love-hate ambivalence about blackcurrant; it can be at once both strongly redolent of cat pee and somehow juicy and tempting. This is too much cognitive dissonance for my brain.

Here, it’s a full-bottomed juicy scent, cutting through the sweetness of narcissus (also a pissy note, with all those indoles) and jasmine (same with the indoles). This could have been a mostly-pee perfume were Shay & Blue not judicious, which would seem exceptionally niche, if you know what I mean. There is indeed something fragrantly sweet and juicy and at the same time unsettlingly organic and body-scented about Atropa Belladonna, which simultaneously makes it interesting and offputting. There’s something to it that puts me in mind of those heavily-fragranced deodorants for women that came out in the 80s, because of this very thing. There’s an armpit aspect to it, a perfumed armpit. Somehow this is done without costus or cumin, apparently (I haven’t seen any listing of those for this), just stinky blackcurrant and indolic white flowers (see Seville a l’Aube for a very deliberate “dirty hair/armpit steeped in sweetness” effect; it’s got both costus and cumin, skillfully deployed.)

It is actually quite a sensuous fragrance, and I wince while writing these words. It’s like cheesy ad copy. No, Atropa Belladonna is not quite naked-lady sensuous, more like…slightly sordid glimpse of the secret object of desire. The glimpse of the edge of a bra cup as someone leans over. The whiff of sweat. Something dark and a bit furtive and stolen. It’s a little sleazy, and I mean that as a compliment. It’s just not entirely wholesome, unlike Sundrunk.

I don’t know if I love it, but I find it very interesting. The longevity and projection on this aren’t quite as impressive as one would surmise with patchouli and jasmine, but it’s not fleeting.

Probably not a full bottle, but I enjoy wearing it. In the right circumstances.

Anyway, that’s all for now; I’m sitting at my desk on a Sunday with surprise rain pouring down, listening to the Cult on Spotify (because they’re one of my “writin’ music” bands. I also have compiled a writing playlist on Youtube from suggestions from my Facebook friends, which I’m switching to in a few minutes), and I really should be doing laundry and working on my book. You know, if I finish my book, and sell it and it is a success, I can buy many perfumes. Many, many perfumes. I’m just saying.

Next, I’m going to dip back into the Fort and Manlé box, for two that don’t smell like any of the others in the box. Ooh! a cliffhanger.

Fort & Manlé: Fatih Sultan Mehmed

“O Constantinople! Either you will take me or I will take you.”
Mehmed the Conqueror

Fort & Manlé’s discovery set, so far, has been a very good thing. Their scents are not same-same, but they often have a very similar bone structure. You can tell they are related. This means that if one works for you, the chances are that another very well might. Hence, I’ve come to expect them to smell good, with little trepidation, even ones where a note or two might give me pause.

Enter Fatih Sultan Mehmed, the next one to be tried. It’s got listed notes of bergamot, apple, petitgrain, rose, tulip, iris, vanilla bean, benzoin, amber, ambergris, cedar, patchouli, oud.

But of course, a note list only tells a bit of the story. You see, Rasei Fort aims high. This was named for none other than Mehmed the Conqueror. As the F & M site says:

…A figure unparalleled in the history of military prowess, statecraft and a lover and patron of the arts and sciences. Considered the Greatest of all Sultans.

You know, like, we’ve got a lot of expectations here now. By the way, he conquered Constantinople* at the age of 22. What was I doing at that age? Clearly nothing adequate. Not by a long shot. You?

My first actual spreadsheet note on this scent: ” I AM IN LOVE. IT MAKES ME WANT TO INVADE CONSTANTINOPLE. IT’S THAT GOOD.”

I might have some unrealistic expectations of what constitutes romance since actual conquest seems to be a thing I would consider therein, but this scent really is quite exquisite on a grand scale.

I mentioned the Fort & Manlé bone structure earlier because it is quite evident here. But this is a very distinctively built scent, unlike even the other F & Ms I’ve tried and loved.

The first (very lovely) note is apple. Fort & Manlé’s fruit notes are truly nice: they tend to the tart rather than the sweet. This is a particularly shining apple. I don’t get much bergamot or petitgrain, except as a complement to the apple. There isn’t a distinct green-citrus note here, merely a spark. As with Harem Rose, we have a flawless, complex Damask rose, mixed with the pale green of tulip and the powder of iris. The entire thing reclines on a sweet bed of amber, vanilla, and benzoin.

A few things that somehow don’t dominate, somewhat to my surprise: oud, cedar, patchouli. In fact, the only one of the woody basenotes that appears distinctly is cedar, and it never overwhelms. But one thing that does appear which made me say, “Ooo! What is that note?”: ambergris. I don’t know if their ambergris is synthesized, but I rather suspect not. I just know this note isn’t something I’ve smelled a lot or at least so distinctly, probably because it’s a scent note that belongs to the past, and which costs dearly now. It’s warm and animalic, like musk, but has an almost buttery salt aspect. There is also a note of soil to it, to which I’m quite partial. A coworker of mine confessed to me that she found the scent of this one strange (not bad, but “strange”) solely because of the “dirt” note she picked up. She seemed to find it unsettling. I also suspect this is the ambergris. Salty, buttery, animalic dirt, yet also sweet.

The longevity of this on me at least is excellent. This is an all-day perfume. Sillage is pretty good (but be aware that this is different enough from most other perfumes that people may, like my coworker, not really know how to take it.) Without a doubt, this scent is a statement, and it is bold. Mehmed, I suspect, would approve.

*(now it’s İstanbul, not Constantinople.)